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DIY info on Concrete Countertops for your Kitchen and Bath
Monday, March 29, 2004
uddy rhodes has some edge molding predone for cast in place.
Buddy Rhodes
I'm sure you could use it for precast. Also you could call a local millwork shop, they could likely make a negative mold for anythign you could think of.
Buddy Rhodes
I'm sure you could use it for precast. Also you could call a local millwork shop, they could likely make a negative mold for anythign you could think of.
Saturday, March 27, 2004
I did another set of 3 test pours same as before; 1 inch thick, 2 inch thick, and 3 inches. Same consistency, 3/4 gal of water with 2 gals (1/2 bag) of Quikrete non-shrink grout mix. I used black colorant this time. I used tan-ish last time. Bubbles rising to the surface are MUCH less of a problem if you don't vibrate the mold/forms. I had read that with non-shrink grout, if you vibrate it, the aggrigate will segragate from the mix. This is what I think is causing all the bubbles. Just pour, screed, and leave it alone. Even so, some small bubbles may still appear. If you're doing pour in place the trick is to wait about 1.5 hours for "thumb print" dry then go over it with a trowel. This wets it up and gets rid of any bubbles on the surface. Of course you will still have allot of sanding to do to get it smooth.
I popped yesterdays pours out of the plastic molds. The bottom surface is amazingly smooth. You could see every detail of the mold - even the tiny numbers I hadn't noticed that were molded into the plastic trays. So far, 36 hours later, there are no visible cracks.
Given this, I think pre-casting countertops upside-down is the thing to do. However, the bottom is so smooth it almost takes on a plastic corian-like appearance. Not as good looking IMO as pictures I have seen of tops made with a modified "standard" concrete mix like Quikrete 5000. But these tops were obviously ground down smooth which requires allot of grinding with diamond wheels, etc.
I may do another test adding pea gravel to the mix, to see if it
gives a better, more natural, look.
I was just looking at Cheng's Neo-mix Pro product. It's about the same cost as using the non-shrink grout. Hmmm...
Tu-Fung Cheng's Concrete Mix
I popped yesterdays pours out of the plastic molds. The bottom surface is amazingly smooth. You could see every detail of the mold - even the tiny numbers I hadn't noticed that were molded into the plastic trays. So far, 36 hours later, there are no visible cracks.
Given this, I think pre-casting countertops upside-down is the thing to do. However, the bottom is so smooth it almost takes on a plastic corian-like appearance. Not as good looking IMO as pictures I have seen of tops made with a modified "standard" concrete mix like Quikrete 5000. But these tops were obviously ground down smooth which requires allot of grinding with diamond wheels, etc.
I may do another test adding pea gravel to the mix, to see if it
gives a better, more natural, look.
I was just looking at Cheng's Neo-mix Pro product. It's about the same cost as using the non-shrink grout. Hmmm...
Tu-Fung Cheng's Concrete Mix
Thursday, March 25, 2004
Well first trial commenced tonight.
Mixed up a batch of the Quikrete non-shrink grout tonight
and poured it into some test molds - plastic plant "drain trays"
like you put under plant pots. One is about 3/4-1" deep by
6" in diameter, One is 1.5-2" deep by 14" in diameter,
another is retangular 4x18" by 4"deep to just get
rid of the extra and also see how it dries REAL thick (ya
never know, maybe it has application for fireplaces, etc.)
I used 2 gals (1/2 bag) of mix and 3/4 gal of water
as per direction on bag for a "fluid" mix... very
wet like syrup. (bag says 1 gallon and 3 pints per
50lb bag which is slightly under 4 gallons)
At this consitency it pretty much levels itself, so
no troweling done.
Yes lots of bubbles come to the surface even though
I mixed it by hand with a small rake moving slowly. .
Seems like the thinner (depth not consistency) the pour
the less the bubbles. I'm wondering if
it's mixed dryer if it will keep the bubbles from
floating to the top - maybe next batch.
It's still quite wet 1 hour after starting pouring it.
I mixed into the water 1/2 bottle of orange-ish
Quikrete cement dye/color into the water prior
to adding the grout mix. After pouring into
the molds I could see "veins" of the color so
I guess I didn't mix it long/good enough.
But the effect kinda looks cool and organic/natural
like stone. We'll see what it looks like after it
dries. Right now it looks brownish, nothing like the color
of the orange dye probably because of the dark
grey grout.
2 hours after pour, they have set up quite a bit.
I took a plastic putty knife and went over the top
of thickest mold - as it had quite a few bubbles
and bumps. This wet up the surface and smoothed
it out quite a bit. I imagine if you had some
really big "pits" you could wait a bit longer for
it to fully set up and then use another "peanut butter"
batch and a rubber grout float to fill in the voids.
Mixed up a batch of the Quikrete non-shrink grout tonight
and poured it into some test molds - plastic plant "drain trays"
like you put under plant pots. One is about 3/4-1" deep by
6" in diameter, One is 1.5-2" deep by 14" in diameter,
another is retangular 4x18" by 4"deep to just get
rid of the extra and also see how it dries REAL thick (ya
never know, maybe it has application for fireplaces, etc.)
I used 2 gals (1/2 bag) of mix and 3/4 gal of water
as per direction on bag for a "fluid" mix... very
wet like syrup. (bag says 1 gallon and 3 pints per
50lb bag which is slightly under 4 gallons)
At this consitency it pretty much levels itself, so
no troweling done.
Yes lots of bubbles come to the surface even though
I mixed it by hand with a small rake moving slowly. .
Seems like the thinner (depth not consistency) the pour
the less the bubbles. I'm wondering if
it's mixed dryer if it will keep the bubbles from
floating to the top - maybe next batch.
It's still quite wet 1 hour after starting pouring it.
I mixed into the water 1/2 bottle of orange-ish
Quikrete cement dye/color into the water prior
to adding the grout mix. After pouring into
the molds I could see "veins" of the color so
I guess I didn't mix it long/good enough.
But the effect kinda looks cool and organic/natural
like stone. We'll see what it looks like after it
dries. Right now it looks brownish, nothing like the color
of the orange dye probably because of the dark
grey grout.
2 hours after pour, they have set up quite a bit.
I took a plastic putty knife and went over the top
of thickest mold - as it had quite a few bubbles
and bumps. This wet up the surface and smoothed
it out quite a bit. I imagine if you had some
really big "pits" you could wait a bit longer for
it to fully set up and then use another "peanut butter"
batch and a rubber grout float to fill in the voids.
http://www.concretenetwork.com
Off topic: Slate flooring... http://www.vermontstone.com/pricing.htm
Wednesday, March 24, 2004
Quikrete sales rep (Dave Ford) said same thing - don't add anything to their non-shrink grout - no telling what will happen. Anyway, he said you don't need it. He said it has the following strengths (when dry) as per consistencies:
Plastic (mashed potatoes/putty?) 14K psi
Flow (pancake batter?)11K psi
Fluid (pancake syrup) 8K psi
He boldly claimed you can just pour the stuff in "fluid" form without working it and without any wire/bar reinforcements and it will be sufficient.
Hard to believe, but great if true.
He also said he met Cheng at a show adn said he uses Quikrete 5000 (perhaps with his own additives?). He couldn't understand why Cheng used it instead of their grout and Cheng said that's just what he has been using for years, so used to it I guess.
You can bet I'm gonna prototype the fluid grout thing - check my blog later to see if it worked :)
Plastic (mashed potatoes/putty?) 14K psi
Flow (pancake batter?)11K psi
Fluid (pancake syrup) 8K psi
He boldly claimed you can just pour the stuff in "fluid" form without working it and without any wire/bar reinforcements and it will be sufficient.
Hard to believe, but great if true.
He also said he met Cheng at a show adn said he uses Quikrete 5000 (perhaps with his own additives?). He couldn't understand why Cheng used it instead of their grout and Cheng said that's just what he has been using for years, so used to it I guess.
You can bet I'm gonna prototype the fluid grout thing - check my blog later to see if it worked :)
Great pictures from Concrete Canvas
fabricators:
Buddy Rhodes: http://www.buddyrhodes.com/ (877) 706-5303
Fu Tung Cheng: http://www.chengdesign.com/ (510) 502-4037
Gerald Santora: http://www.soupcan.com/ (312) 243-6928
Kelly Carr: http://www.concretejungleonline.com/ (301) 495-9010
David Jansen: http://www.sonomastone.com/ (877) 939-9929
For information on cleaning and maintaining a concrete countertop—try the National Training Center for Stone and Masonry trades: http://www.ntc-stone.com/
Buddy Rhodes: http://www.buddyrhodes.com/ (877) 706-5303
Fu Tung Cheng: http://www.chengdesign.com/ (510) 502-4037
Gerald Santora: http://www.soupcan.com/ (312) 243-6928
Kelly Carr: http://www.concretejungleonline.com/ (301) 495-9010
David Jansen: http://www.sonomastone.com/ (877) 939-9929
For information on cleaning and maintaining a concrete countertop—try the National Training Center for Stone and Masonry trades: http://www.ntc-stone.com/
coating material? --> http://www.epoxy.com/
I spoke with a Quikrete sales rep about the "bubbles" problem.
He said this can happen if you use an electric mixer (paddle) at too high a speed it will put air pockets/bubbles into the mix which can rise and/or coalesce at or near the surface. The solution is to mix slowly and tap edges of bucket to release air.
He knew of several people who had success with their grout. OK, so he's not completely unbiased ;-)
He said this can happen if you use an electric mixer (paddle) at too high a speed it will put air pockets/bubbles into the mix which can rise and/or coalesce at or near the surface. The solution is to mix slowly and tap edges of bucket to release air.
He knew of several people who had success with their grout. OK, so he's not completely unbiased ;-)
http://www.chengdesign.com/geocrete.html
http://www.graniterock.com/
http://www.glaze-n-seal.com/
Glaze 'N Seal. Wet Look clear lacquer gives decorative concrete a beautiful, durable, and long-lasting finish, according to the firm. It protects all types of decorative overlays and surfaces and is suitable for interior and exterior use. It dries quickly and resists chemicals, abrasion, sunlight, efflorescence, and stains, the company says. A low-VOC version, Wet Look 2000, also is available. 800-486-1414. www.glaze-n-seal.com. Circle 216.
http://www.graniterock.com/
http://www.glaze-n-seal.com/
Glaze 'N Seal. Wet Look clear lacquer gives decorative concrete a beautiful, durable, and long-lasting finish, according to the firm. It protects all types of decorative overlays and surfaces and is suitable for interior and exterior use. It dries quickly and resists chemicals, abrasion, sunlight, efflorescence, and stains, the company says. A low-VOC version, Wet Look 2000, also is available. 800-486-1414. www.glaze-n-seal.com. Circle 216.
Tuesday, March 23, 2004
Fritzpak Countertop cement admixture
I talked to Fritzpack (Gabriel the president actually) about their CounterFlo "Countertop Admixture" specifically made for countertops.
http://www.fritzpak.com/news/ct_press.html
His recommendation:
1. Supplement 10 lbs of Portland cement for each 80 lbs bag of premixed concrete (he mentioned no brands/types).
2. Use 1 scoop (2 oz.) of CounterFlo per bag of concrete, or for every 20 lbs of cement.
So given recipe above it would be 1.5 scoops (3 oz.) of CounterFlo per batch of above.
CounterFlo is $45 per per 8 lb container. This is 192 ounces, enough for 63 batches of above recipe!
=======================
COUNTER-FLO
Concrete Countertop Admixture
NEW PRODUCT INFORMATION
Counter-Flo, Fritz-Pak's Concrete Countertop Admixture is a mixture of water reducers and mineral admixtures specifically designed for use in the production of concrete countertops and concrete statuary. It makes concrete more flowable for easy placement without adding additional water, allowing you to reduce the water:cement ratio in your mix. By lowering water content you achieve higher compressive and structural strength, thus allowing faster demolding and a faster cure. Lower water content will also provide a denser and less permeable concrete, making the concrete less prone to staining. Use of Counter-Flo allows you to place a relatively wetter concrete, reducing the amount of air bubbles, so concrete will yield a better pattern definition.
Packaging:
Counter-Flo comes in an 8-lb re-closable plastic container. Enclosed is a plastic 2-oz (volumetric) scoop for easy dosage. The container yields about 66 scoops of material: enough to treat 1320 lbs of cementitious materials. MSRP is $45.00 per container.
Directions:
Preferably, Counter-Flo should be added to the dry concrete or mix materials before adding water. Blend thoroughly within the dry materials and proceed mixing the concrete normally, but using about 20% less water. If added to wet concrete, sprinkle over all the concrete to avoid areas of high concentration, then mix well for 5 minutes to allow the active ingredient to hydrate and disperse within the concrete.
For pre-bagged concrete: Use 1 level scoop (2-oz volume) per 80 lb bag of concrete. For higher water reduction you may increase the dosage rate, but do not exceed 3 scoops per bag of concrete.
For site made concrete: Determine the total amount of cement in your mix and add 1 level scoop (2-oz volume) for each 20 lbs (9 kg) of cement.
For modified pre-bagged concrete: Add enough Counter-Flo for the pre-bagged concrete and then add Counter-Flo for the additional cementitious material added. Add one level scoop for each bag of pre-bagged concrete and 1 additional level scoop for every 20 lbs of cementitious materials. Cementitious materials include fly-ash, silica fume, slag or calcined clay; include them as part of the cement weight in order to determine the number of scoops to use.
Notes:
Good Practices. Always follow good concreting practices when using Counter-Flo. We recommend the practices of the American Concrete Institute, (ACI), the American Society of Concrete Contractors (ASCC) or the Portland Cement Association (PCA).
Pigments. If pigments are used in your mix; add Counter-Flo before or at the same time as pigments are added. Counter-Flo will help disperse the pigments within the mix.
Timing and Re-Dosing. Counter-Flo will gradually lose its effect within about 45 minutes of adding water (faster in warm climates >80F). If effects wear off, fresh unplaced concrete may be re-dosed to regain flow properties.
Available Feb 27, 2004, Call 888-746-4116 or your Fritz-Pak Distributor for more information.
I talked to Fritzpack (Gabriel the president actually) about their CounterFlo "Countertop Admixture" specifically made for countertops.
http://www.fritzpak.com/news/ct_press.html
His recommendation:
1. Supplement 10 lbs of Portland cement for each 80 lbs bag of premixed concrete (he mentioned no brands/types).
2. Use 1 scoop (2 oz.) of CounterFlo per bag of concrete, or for every 20 lbs of cement.
So given recipe above it would be 1.5 scoops (3 oz.) of CounterFlo per batch of above.
CounterFlo is $45 per per 8 lb container. This is 192 ounces, enough for 63 batches of above recipe!
=======================
COUNTER-FLO
Concrete Countertop Admixture
NEW PRODUCT INFORMATION
Counter-Flo, Fritz-Pak's Concrete Countertop Admixture is a mixture of water reducers and mineral admixtures specifically designed for use in the production of concrete countertops and concrete statuary. It makes concrete more flowable for easy placement without adding additional water, allowing you to reduce the water:cement ratio in your mix. By lowering water content you achieve higher compressive and structural strength, thus allowing faster demolding and a faster cure. Lower water content will also provide a denser and less permeable concrete, making the concrete less prone to staining. Use of Counter-Flo allows you to place a relatively wetter concrete, reducing the amount of air bubbles, so concrete will yield a better pattern definition.
Packaging:
Counter-Flo comes in an 8-lb re-closable plastic container. Enclosed is a plastic 2-oz (volumetric) scoop for easy dosage. The container yields about 66 scoops of material: enough to treat 1320 lbs of cementitious materials. MSRP is $45.00 per container.
Directions:
Preferably, Counter-Flo should be added to the dry concrete or mix materials before adding water. Blend thoroughly within the dry materials and proceed mixing the concrete normally, but using about 20% less water. If added to wet concrete, sprinkle over all the concrete to avoid areas of high concentration, then mix well for 5 minutes to allow the active ingredient to hydrate and disperse within the concrete.
For pre-bagged concrete: Use 1 level scoop (2-oz volume) per 80 lb bag of concrete. For higher water reduction you may increase the dosage rate, but do not exceed 3 scoops per bag of concrete.
For site made concrete: Determine the total amount of cement in your mix and add 1 level scoop (2-oz volume) for each 20 lbs (9 kg) of cement.
For modified pre-bagged concrete: Add enough Counter-Flo for the pre-bagged concrete and then add Counter-Flo for the additional cementitious material added. Add one level scoop for each bag of pre-bagged concrete and 1 additional level scoop for every 20 lbs of cementitious materials. Cementitious materials include fly-ash, silica fume, slag or calcined clay; include them as part of the cement weight in order to determine the number of scoops to use.
Notes:
Good Practices. Always follow good concreting practices when using Counter-Flo. We recommend the practices of the American Concrete Institute, (ACI), the American Society of Concrete Contractors (ASCC) or the Portland Cement Association (PCA).
Pigments. If pigments are used in your mix; add Counter-Flo before or at the same time as pigments are added. Counter-Flo will help disperse the pigments within the mix.
Timing and Re-Dosing. Counter-Flo will gradually lose its effect within about 45 minutes of adding water (faster in warm climates >80F). If effects wear off, fresh unplaced concrete may be re-dosed to regain flow properties.
Available Feb 27, 2004, Call 888-746-4116 or your Fritz-Pak Distributor for more information.
video http://www.thestampstore.com/video.htm
Time to Mix the Concrete
The mixing of the concrete will be the most challenging task in making a concrete kitchen countertop. Ryan suggests that you mix your own concrete to create the most sturdy mixture possible
Determine the rough volume of the countertop -- for 1-1/2" layer of concrete use 15 lbs. per square foot. From the inside of the mold, measure the length, width and height and multiply all three to determine the square footage.
Cement recipe:
1 part cement (type 1 or 2)
2 parts rock (3/8-inch pea gravel)
3 parts sand (finest aggregate)
Water, water reducer and pigment (your choice)
Note: If you are going to use pigment, it should be 4 percent of the weight of the cement. Measure carefully.
The mixing of the concrete will be the most challenging task in making a concrete kitchen countertop. Ryan suggests that you mix your own concrete to create the most sturdy mixture possible
Determine the rough volume of the countertop -- for 1-1/2" layer of concrete use 15 lbs. per square foot. From the inside of the mold, measure the length, width and height and multiply all three to determine the square footage.
Cement recipe:
1 part cement (type 1 or 2)
2 parts rock (3/8-inch pea gravel)
3 parts sand (finest aggregate)
Water, water reducer and pigment (your choice)
Note: If you are going to use pigment, it should be 4 percent of the weight of the cement. Measure carefully.
Monday, March 22, 2004
Buddy Rhodes countertop concrete mix $32 per 70lb bag
Concrete countertop forum at decorative-concrete.net
The coloring came from www.concretecoloring.net. I used Deep Black and the price was very reasonable. The concrete was a gray sandmix poured over plaster lathe, which was screwed to the plywood (lined with 6 mil plastic). If you omit the screws, the concrete will pull away from the plastic covered plywood. The plastic keeps the plywood from warping from the wet concrete. The plywood underlayment also made the installation of the undercounter mounted sink pretty easy. I rolled the lath over the edges and screwed it to the edges so that the concrete would cover the edges.
The mix was poured in place and trowelled smooth. After sanding, I sealed and then waxed it with a food safe sealer and wax. I sanded instead of grinding, because it did not create as big of a mess. This was the final phase of the kitchen remodel, where I tore down walls, put up new walls, refaced the cabinets in oak, built and replaced the cabinet doors, installed and sanded oak flooring, so I wanted to keep the mess down.
Note to Cami: Thanks for posting the picture!
Via John Bridge Tile Forum...
www.butlerscraftsupplies.com
They carry super plastisizers (reducers) in small quantities. Also colors and a few other cool things. They cater to the hobbiest.
http://www.fritzpak.com
FritzPak has some of the best reducers available. Find a distributer in your area off thier site. The smallest amount your can buy is a box of 24, 2.5 lbs. packs. A lot of material, but much fun to play with, and the $130 or so is not that bad.
You do not pour countertops, you place them. The mud is rather stiff. For a rookie, cast it upside down using a melamine form. This gives a rather smooth surface (better than a rookie can get finishing the top). Chengs' pic showing the rebar suspended by wire tied to screws is the best way I have found to prevent sinking. Use silicone to caulk the joints where the melamine meets. Believe it or not, acrylic seems to suck up some water from the crete, and creates a weak corner. Concrete does not like 90 degree corners to begin with. Something to think about. Get creative. You can cut strips of styrofoam the thickness of the top, spray with xylene to texture one side of the foam, and glue to the inside of the uprights of the form. This will give your top a split face block (broken off clean) look. Just one tip
Most cabinets can support concrete tops, just like granite pretty much. 1.5" thick tops average around 18.75 lbs per sq. ft. 2" tops are around 25 lbs per sq. ft. Thicker is always more desirable for customers, but for a DIYer, is more forgiving. Reduce ghosting. Little longer dry times. If casting, the weight is something to think about. How long is each run? You want to minimize seams I am sure.
I use a palm sander without sandpaper on it to vibrate the sides and bottom of the form after placement. This, along with the plastisizer, will prevent honeycombing.
What colors? How are you going to seal? Do you want inserts for hot pans? Any crazy designs?
I can help you on your mix and methods, if you like. I have done quite a few tops. I am working on a large project right now. Casting panels, 4'x4'-4'x6'-4'x8', and placing them on the side of a building, 40'x25'. Light grey, medium grey and black. The designer wants a random "ashlar" pattern. Just a side gig
www.butlerscraftsupplies.com
They carry super plastisizers (reducers) in small quantities. Also colors and a few other cool things. They cater to the hobbiest.
http://www.fritzpak.com
FritzPak has some of the best reducers available. Find a distributer in your area off thier site. The smallest amount your can buy is a box of 24, 2.5 lbs. packs. A lot of material, but much fun to play with, and the $130 or so is not that bad.
You do not pour countertops, you place them. The mud is rather stiff. For a rookie, cast it upside down using a melamine form. This gives a rather smooth surface (better than a rookie can get finishing the top). Chengs' pic showing the rebar suspended by wire tied to screws is the best way I have found to prevent sinking. Use silicone to caulk the joints where the melamine meets. Believe it or not, acrylic seems to suck up some water from the crete, and creates a weak corner. Concrete does not like 90 degree corners to begin with. Something to think about. Get creative. You can cut strips of styrofoam the thickness of the top, spray with xylene to texture one side of the foam, and glue to the inside of the uprights of the form. This will give your top a split face block (broken off clean) look. Just one tip
Most cabinets can support concrete tops, just like granite pretty much. 1.5" thick tops average around 18.75 lbs per sq. ft. 2" tops are around 25 lbs per sq. ft. Thicker is always more desirable for customers, but for a DIYer, is more forgiving. Reduce ghosting. Little longer dry times. If casting, the weight is something to think about. How long is each run? You want to minimize seams I am sure.
I use a palm sander without sandpaper on it to vibrate the sides and bottom of the form after placement. This, along with the plastisizer, will prevent honeycombing.
What colors? How are you going to seal? Do you want inserts for hot pans? Any crazy designs?
I can help you on your mix and methods, if you like. I have done quite a few tops. I am working on a large project right now. Casting panels, 4'x4'-4'x6'-4'x8', and placing them on the side of a building, 40'x25'. Light grey, medium grey and black. The designer wants a random "ashlar" pattern. Just a side gig
NaturalHandyman.com Concrete Countertops
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/author/dcn/conccounter-a.shtm
Decoritive-concrete.net
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/author/dcn/conccounter-a.shtm
Decoritive-concrete.net
DIYNet Concrete Countertops
http://www.diynet.com/diy/shows_wkh/episode/0,2046,DIY_14346_26823,00.html
Do It Yourself
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URL: http://www.diynet.com/diy/shows_wkh/episode/0,2046,DIY_14346_26823,00.html
Weekend Handyman
Episode WKH-104
Concrete Countertops
On this episode of Weekend Handyman, we'll show you a way to revitalize a kitchen countertop by using -- believe it or not -- concrete. We demonstrate how to create the concrete countertop, complete with custom color and textures, and then we show you how to build a form for your new countertop. We also show you how to mix the concrete to get the right consistency and color. You'll learn how to pour the mix and "vibrate" it into place, finish it, strip the mold, fill the holes, seal and wax the surface and, finally, install it in your kitchen.
IN THIS EPISODE:
Concrete Countertops: Why Use Concrete for Kitchen Countertops?
Concrete Countertops: Mixing the Concrete
Concrete Countertops: Revealing the Mold and Installing the Countertop
Concrete Countertops: Garden Stepping Stones
Materials List and Instructions (see link above for pictures)
Materials for Complete Project:
Palm sander or random orbital sander
Screw gun and screws
Buffer
Bolt cutters
Caulk gun and silicone caulk
Five 1-gal. buckets
Magnesium float
Jigsaw
Circular saw
Table saw
Cement mixer
Melamine
100 percent silicone
Denatured alcohol
Kerosene-based release oil
Thick gauge wire mesh (hog fence)
Fiberglass or masonite
Type 1 or 2 cement
Two parts rock (3/8" pea gravel -- a natural lightweight aggregate)
Three parts sand
Water
Water reducer
Pigment
Mask
Goggles
Heavy rubber gloves
2 x 4
150 grit sandpaper
Shop vacuum cleaner
Putty knife
Damp rag
Water-based sealer
3/16" paint roller
Food-safe wax
Tape
2 x 6
Remove existing countertop.
Gather tools.
Build form or mold for concrete.
Measure the cabinets corner to corner and add 1-1/2" on the three exposed sides for overlay.
Cut melamine exact size of the countertop.
Cut 2" melamine strips for the sides and ends.
Smooth out edges with orbital sander.
Use fiberglass or masonite strips to create curves on corners.
Screw strips and bottom together with 1 3/4" screws to create box.
Tape edges by seams to create clean edges for silicone.
Seal edges where melamine comes together with 100-percent silicone.
Use denatured alcohol on finger to wipe the silicone smooth.
Carefully pull tape onto itself to pull off.
Affix any items for "relief" or "inlay" effects with spray adhesive to base of form.
Cover every surface of mold with kerosene-based release oil.
Cut "hog fence" wire mesh for concrete reinforcement leaving 1-1/2" at edges.
Mix the concrete.
Determine rough volume of countertop -- for 1-1/2" layer of concrete use 15 lbs. per square foot.
Cement recipe:
1 part cement (type 1 or 2)
2 parts rock (3/8-inch pea gravel)
3 parts sand (finest aggregate)
Water, water reducer and pigment
Preparation:
Add small amount of water into mixer. Slowly add cement, more water and then add sand, pea gravel, more water, pigment, more water and water reducer until consistency is like thick oatmeal.
Transfer wet concrete from mixer to a 5-gallon bucket. Pour concrete into mold and evenly distribute.
Use magnesium float to spread concrete.
"Screed" with 2-by-4 sliding back and forth over concrete.
Put hog-fence reinforcement on surface.
Screed again.
Vibrate sides of form with palm sander to release trapped air.
Let it cure from two to four days.
Strip the form. Remove the screws, pry boards away carefully.
Flip the top over.
Sand top with 150-grit paper and palm sander.
Clean off dust and sand with a shop vacuum.
Fill any holes with Portland cement and water mixed with dye.
Scrape excess filler off after it dries and sand again and remove dust and wipe with a damp rag.
Seal concrete with water-based sealer and roll on with paint roller.
Sand again.
Wax top with food-safe wax.
Buff after wax dries with power buffer.
Prepare the surface to receive countertop. Tape edges and put a bead of 100-percent silicone along edge of cabinet top.
Gently lower countertop onto cabinets, checking overhang alignment.
Silicone caulk the seam between countertop and cabinet.
How to Make Stepping Stones
Cut around the top of a 5-gallon bucket above the handle to create a form.
Set the form on a sheet of plywood.
Fill form with leftover concrete.
When concrete is set remove form.
http://www.diynet.com/diy/shows_wkh/episode/0,2046,DIY_14346_26823,00.html
Do It Yourself
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URL: http://www.diynet.com/diy/shows_wkh/episode/0,2046,DIY_14346_26823,00.html
Weekend Handyman
Episode WKH-104
Concrete Countertops
On this episode of Weekend Handyman, we'll show you a way to revitalize a kitchen countertop by using -- believe it or not -- concrete. We demonstrate how to create the concrete countertop, complete with custom color and textures, and then we show you how to build a form for your new countertop. We also show you how to mix the concrete to get the right consistency and color. You'll learn how to pour the mix and "vibrate" it into place, finish it, strip the mold, fill the holes, seal and wax the surface and, finally, install it in your kitchen.
IN THIS EPISODE:
Concrete Countertops: Why Use Concrete for Kitchen Countertops?
Concrete Countertops: Mixing the Concrete
Concrete Countertops: Revealing the Mold and Installing the Countertop
Concrete Countertops: Garden Stepping Stones
Materials List and Instructions (see link above for pictures)
Materials for Complete Project:
Palm sander or random orbital sander
Screw gun and screws
Buffer
Bolt cutters
Caulk gun and silicone caulk
Five 1-gal. buckets
Magnesium float
Jigsaw
Circular saw
Table saw
Cement mixer
Melamine
100 percent silicone
Denatured alcohol
Kerosene-based release oil
Thick gauge wire mesh (hog fence)
Fiberglass or masonite
Type 1 or 2 cement
Two parts rock (3/8" pea gravel -- a natural lightweight aggregate)
Three parts sand
Water
Water reducer
Pigment
Mask
Goggles
Heavy rubber gloves
2 x 4
150 grit sandpaper
Shop vacuum cleaner
Putty knife
Damp rag
Water-based sealer
3/16" paint roller
Food-safe wax
Tape
2 x 6
Remove existing countertop.
Gather tools.
Build form or mold for concrete.
Measure the cabinets corner to corner and add 1-1/2" on the three exposed sides for overlay.
Cut melamine exact size of the countertop.
Cut 2" melamine strips for the sides and ends.
Smooth out edges with orbital sander.
Use fiberglass or masonite strips to create curves on corners.
Screw strips and bottom together with 1 3/4" screws to create box.
Tape edges by seams to create clean edges for silicone.
Seal edges where melamine comes together with 100-percent silicone.
Use denatured alcohol on finger to wipe the silicone smooth.
Carefully pull tape onto itself to pull off.
Affix any items for "relief" or "inlay" effects with spray adhesive to base of form.
Cover every surface of mold with kerosene-based release oil.
Cut "hog fence" wire mesh for concrete reinforcement leaving 1-1/2" at edges.
Mix the concrete.
Determine rough volume of countertop -- for 1-1/2" layer of concrete use 15 lbs. per square foot.
Cement recipe:
1 part cement (type 1 or 2)
2 parts rock (3/8-inch pea gravel)
3 parts sand (finest aggregate)
Water, water reducer and pigment
Preparation:
Add small amount of water into mixer. Slowly add cement, more water and then add sand, pea gravel, more water, pigment, more water and water reducer until consistency is like thick oatmeal.
Transfer wet concrete from mixer to a 5-gallon bucket. Pour concrete into mold and evenly distribute.
Use magnesium float to spread concrete.
"Screed" with 2-by-4 sliding back and forth over concrete.
Put hog-fence reinforcement on surface.
Screed again.
Vibrate sides of form with palm sander to release trapped air.
Let it cure from two to four days.
Strip the form. Remove the screws, pry boards away carefully.
Flip the top over.
Sand top with 150-grit paper and palm sander.
Clean off dust and sand with a shop vacuum.
Fill any holes with Portland cement and water mixed with dye.
Scrape excess filler off after it dries and sand again and remove dust and wipe with a damp rag.
Seal concrete with water-based sealer and roll on with paint roller.
Sand again.
Wax top with food-safe wax.
Buff after wax dries with power buffer.
Prepare the surface to receive countertop. Tape edges and put a bead of 100-percent silicone along edge of cabinet top.
Gently lower countertop onto cabinets, checking overhang alignment.
Silicone caulk the seam between countertop and cabinet.
How to Make Stepping Stones
Cut around the top of a 5-gallon bucket above the handle to create a form.
Set the form on a sheet of plywood.
Fill form with leftover concrete.
When concrete is set remove form.
Quickrete CONCRETE COUNTERTOPS
Quickrete Precision Non-shrink grout
Quikrete (mfg plant) in Fremont, CA. - (510)490-4670 Ask for sales rep. Don Ford.
Quickrete Cure & Seal
ATLANTA (November 19, 2003)
http://www.quikrete.com/inside/release_111903countertop.htm
Quickrete Precision Non-shrink grout
Quikrete (mfg plant) in Fremont, CA. - (510)490-4670 Ask for sales rep. Don Ford.
Quickrete Cure & Seal
ATLANTA (November 19, 2003)
http://www.quikrete.com/inside/release_111903countertop.htm
There are many home improvement projects that enhance the appearance and increase the value of a home. Landscaping and maintenance projects have long been common home improvement practices by homeowners. However, do-it-yourselfers have become more technically advanced resulting in bigger and bolder home improvement projects, especially in the bathroom and kitchen.
Concrete is becoming a very popular kitchen and bathroom countertop material among designers and remodelers due to its unique appearance and durability. Concrete countertops also offer homeowners an outstanding alternative to expensive materials and the costly professional installation associated with other countertops in kitchen and bathroom design and remodeling. Concrete countertops are affordable beatification project that can be installed as a do-it-yourself project by most homeowners. For example, a concrete countertop that is 22" deep by 1 ½" thick can be completed in a weekend at a cost of $15 to $17 per lineal foot.
To create a concrete countertop, do-it-yourselfers will need QUIKRETE™ Precision Non-Shrink Grout, QUIKRETE™ Cement Colors, QUIKRETE™ Cure & Seal, drill with paddle mixer, trowel, cement float, 5-gallon bucket, 1-gallon bucket, ¾" laminate wood board, ¾" laminate wood strips, 1-1/2" wood screws, caulk and caulk gun, form release agent, 2" paint brush, rubber mallet and sand paper. Once the materials are gathered, the following are step-by-step instructions:
Construct the countertop form by securing the laminate strips to the laminate board using wood screws.
Run a small bead of caulk into the joints of the form and allow it to dry.
Apply a form release agent to the inside of the form for easy removal of the countertops once the concrete has cured.
Mix the QUIKRETE™ Non-Shrink Precision Grout to a plastic yet flowable consistency using the drill with paddle mixer (follow the directions on the bag for detailed instructions on preparing the non-shrink precision grout).
For a decorative touch, add QUIKRETE™ Liquid Cement Color (available in red, brown, buff, charcoal, terra cotta) to the mixing water.
Pour the completed mixture into the pre-constructed forms and spread evenly using a cement float. Level the grout to the top of the form using a wood float or steel trowel.
Tap the sides of the form with a rubber mallet before finishing the concrete countertop to reduce air pockets that could leave voids on the surface.
A steel trowel finish can be applied to the bottom surface of the concrete countertop once the surface is "thumbprint hard."
Remove the form from the concrete countertops after setting for 24 to 48 hours. Turn the counter top over and if necessary the edges can be touched up with very fine sandpaper.
Clean the concrete countertops with QUIKRETE™ Concrete and Asphalt Cleaner and then apply QUIKRETE™ Acrylic Concrete Cure & Seal.
Secure the concrete countertops to the vanity or cabinetry using silicon sealant.
A concrete countertop will need to be resealed periodically, especially if it is used often. To learn more about creating concrete countertops or to obtain help calculating the amount of packaged grout required for a particular project, visit www.quikrete.com or call 1-800-282-5828.
The QUIKRETE® Companies, headquartered in Atlanta, is the North American leader in packaged concrete products. QUIKRETE has more than 70 manufacturing facilities, with plants located throughout the United States, Canada, Puerto Rico and South America. For additional information on concrete repair products, please visit www.quikrete.com or call 1-800-282-5828.
